Animal behaviorist, dog trainer

For training and walking most dogs, half check collars (material collar joined by a small piece of chain which the lead is attached to) are ideal.

The collar works in the following way:
The material part of the collar is adjusted to the circumference of the dog’s neck so that when the lead pulls on the chain link the collar will tighten to the width of the dog’s neck, but no more. In this way the dog is prevented from backing up and slipping out of the collar, but because the chain link can only contract a short distance, the dog is not choked as with a choke/check chain.

However, half-check collars are training and walking tools and are not ideal for leaving on the dog permanently. Firstly, because the collar fits loosely around the dog’s neck when the lead is not attached, there is the possibility that the collar may slip off the dog’s head and be lost. Of far more concern though, is that because the collar is fairly loose the dog may get it caught on a fence or other object, panic and twist the collar until it strangles itself.

I have also heard several first-hand reports of dogs with half-check collars that have been playing together when one dog’s tooth got caught in the other’s collar, the dog’s both panicked and the dog whose collar was caught started to strangle. In one case the owner actually had to resuscitate her dog as the dog had stopped breathing.

It is always recommended that dogs wear a collar at home so that identification can be attached and the owner can catch or physically restrain the dog in an emergency. However, such a collar should always be a flat clasp or buckle collar that fits snugly, but comfortably around the dog’s neck. In the case of young puppies or active dogs it may be wise to remove any collar when the dog is left alone to prevent the dog hooking the collar on something and injuring itself.

Despite the fact that new by-laws which will effectively prohibit the breeding of non-registered dogs are soon to be implemented, there seems to be an endless supply of non-registered puppies for sale. On the surface it may seem that there is little reason to get a registered dog when a “purebred” one without papers costs less, but looks the same. However, there are some very important things to consider:

Besides the purpose of preserving the physical and behavioural characteristics of the various breeds, the system of registering puppies also creates accountability. Most registered breeders are very serious when it comes to maintaining their good name and producing puppies that will be a credit to them in looks, temperament and health.

As someone who deals with newly acquired puppies constantly, I am increasingly distressed at the complete lack of accountability of most casual breeders. All too often puppies are homed far too early (anything from 4 - 6 weeks of age) and they have not been vaccinated or de-wormed.

In many cases the people who purchase the puppies are also to blame. They agree to take underage pups, don’t  ask for vaccination cards and even take puppies when they have not had the chance to meet the parents, all against their better judgment.

When acquiring a puppy please make sure to do the following:
1. When at all possible, do go to a registered breeder. If you would prefer a mixed breed dog, have a look at all the local shelters.
2. Do not take your puppy home before it is 8 weeks old. If the “breeder” wants you to take the pups at 6 weeks, do not support him.
3. Don not take a puppy that has not had the first vaccination - ask to see the vet card if necessary.
4. Do not take a puppy when you have not met the parents.
5. Do not take a puppy when you observe that one of the parents has a temperament flaw (nervousness, hyperactivity or aggression).

Some non-registered breeders are making a fortune from selling puppies without taking any responsibility for the animals they are producing. Many sell pups for as much as R3000, but unlike registered breeders they have virtually no expenses (no registration fees, no vaccinations, no de-worming, no micro-chips, no stud fees and lower cost for food due to early homing).  Please don’t support unscrupulous or ignorant breeders!

Training a dog to behave in acceptable ways is something that should start the moment that you bring your puppy home. As I have mentioned many times before, puppies are like little sponges, constantly absorbing feedback from the environment which determines how they behave. Often, because puppies are so cute, we allow them to do things which we would never accept in an adult dog and then we get very upset when they continue to do these things as they mature. This is hardly fair! Here are some things that you can do to make sure that you raise a well-mannered adult dog:

1. Ensure that your puppy is old enough when you bring him home: Pups that leave their mothers before 8 weeks of age (backyard-bred pups are often sold at 5 or 6 weeks) miss a couple of very important weeks when it comes to feedback they would get from their mother and siblings during play. They are likely to bite a lot harder when playing with you and their ability to interact well with other dogs may also suffer. Do not support breeders who try to get rid of pups as soon as possible.

2. Continue to teach bite-inhibition at home: Allow your pup to chew you gently during play, but if he bites harder shout “Ouch!” and stop playing with him for a minute or two. If you do this consistently, he will learn that being rough spoils the game and so will develop a soft mouth.

3. Do not reward unwanted behaviour: One of the most common problem behaviours in young dogs is jumping up to get attention. Right from the start you must make sure that this behaviour never gets rewarded i.e. gets attention. Always turn away from your puppy and ignore him (no eye-contact, no speaking) until all his paws are back on the ground. Shouting and shoving is still attention, so rather don’t respond at all!

 
4. Do not encourage demand barking: Some dogs tend to bark to get attention or to get food or toys. Never ever give them what they want when they are barking. If your dog barks at you while you are about to dish up his food, walk away and wait another five minutes before going back to feed him. If you have a natural barker, rather put the behaviour on cue and reward it only when you have asked for it!

 
5. Teach basic exercises like “sit”, “down” and “stay” and use these in everyday situations to encourage calm and polite behaviour: You can ask the dog to sit before you put the lead on or open the door or feed a meal. This way the dog learns to be responsive to you, because all the good stuff happens when he does as you ask!

6. Don’t forget to reward desired behaviour: Always reward your puppy with lots of praise and treats if he comes when he is called or lets go of  a toy when you ask him to. Often we are so worried about stopping behaviour that we don’t like, that we forget to reward behaviour we do like. Behaviour that gets no reward eventually stops!

While you may feel that you can achieve the above at home, it is always an excellent idea to enrol in a good puppy class where young dogs learn basic obedience and get to socialise with other dogs and people. Having contact with a trainer who can assist you every step of the way will prevent you from making common training errors and ensure that you have the best chance of raising a good canine citizen!

At the moment in South Africa Cesar Milan’s hit TV series “The Dog Whisperer” can be seen on DSTV. In the programme Cesar quietly and charismatically teaches owners how to be their dogs’ leaders and in so doing apparently solves a host of canine behavioural problems.

However, besides repeating a lot of erroneous pop dog psychology, the programme does not offer any practical advice for dog owners and, in fact, Cesar’s gentle way of speaking obscures the fact that some of the techniques used to “subdue” problem dogs are downright dangerous and abusive (e.g. forcing dogs onto their backs, pinning them down and strangling them with nylon chokers).

In fact this popular programme is a far cry from what the original “Dog Whisperer” Paul Owens teaches in his books. A proponent of non-violent and humane training methods, Owens wrote a wonderful book “The Dog Whisperer” that deals with lure-reward training and other positive ways of solving canine behavioural problems. It is a book that I highly recommend.

While educated dog trainers easily recognise the major flaws in Cesar’s “training techniques”, unfortunately the general dog-owning public is often misled by his charismatic “energy” and his connection to Hollywood stars. But don’t be fooled - above all, remember that this is a TV show and not reality. Who knows what is really going on behind the scenes?

For more information on the subject and to read the opinions of some well-respected trainers, please go to the following links:

http://beyondcesarmillan.weebly.com/paul-owens—dog-whisperer.html (Paul Owens’ comments n the programme)

http://beyondcesarmillan.weebly.com/jean-donaldson.html (Jean Donaldson’s comments on the programme)

http://www.4pawsu.com/cesarfans.htm (answers to common questions from Cesar fans)

 http://www.urbandawgs.com/luescher_millan.html  (comments by From Andrew Luescher, DVM, Veterinary Behaviorist , Animal Behavior Clinic, Purdue University)
 

Also see my article: “Pack Theory: Fact or Fiction” which examines the philosophy which the programme is based on.

Always make sure that your dogs are under control on walks, that you carry a lead with you at all times and are ready to use it if the need arises.

 Unfortunately, not everybody likes dogs, so all of us who do have a responsibility to improve the perception of dogs by our society through responsible dog ownership. While there are people who irrationally fear and dislike dogs, we must always ensure that our dogs’ behaviour (and our own!) does not give any real grounds for complaint or criticism:

1. DO socialise your dog. A dog that is not used to other people or other dogs is more likely to show aggression in social situations. Controlled socialisation should begin as soon as you bring your puppy home.
2. DO train your dog. An untrained dog will not know how to behave in public and even friendly dogs may upset others if they have never learned any manners. Training should begin as soon as your puppy is brought home. If you have no idea how or what you should teach your dog, seek help from a dog trainer or animal behaviourist as soon as possible.
3. DO keep your dog inside your property. Dogs that are allowed to wander can come to all sorts of harm and may also be accused of “crimes” they did or did not commit!
4. DO walk your dog every day. Walking provides an outlet for many doggy activities (sniffing, socialising, digging, swimming, running etc) and leaves less energy for unwanted behaviours.
5. DO leash your do when walking in the streets. Besides the danger that traffic poses to dogs, many dogs find it fun to approach dogs behind fences and bark at them causing an unnecessary disturbance.
6. DO always carry a leash with you in areas where dogs may run freely. Always be prepared to leash your dog in any situation where he may not be well trained enough to stay out of trouble!
7. DO spay or castrate your dog. Unless you have a registered dog and intend breeding according to KUSA regulations, it is unwise to produce puppies which all have to find good homes. Neutered dogs are also generally easier to live with and to take out in public.
8. DO NOT allow your dog to soil public pathways.
9. DO NOT allow your dog to bark incessantly for long periods of time. Dogs that are allowed in the house and are treated as part of the family are generally far less noisy than dogs that are left outside all day.
10. DO NOT purchase two puppies at the same time. It is a lot harder to train and socialise two puppies than one pup. When two puppies grow up together they often do not bond well with the owner and instead become over-dependant on each other. Dogs of the same age (especially if they are the same sex) are also more likely to fight with each other.

The unfortunate reality of having a dog is that at some point the dog is going to get old. While many dogs age very well and remain fairly healthy, outgoing and playful during their senior years, the fact remains that aging bodies and minds are not as easy-going as young ones. Senior dogs may be a little cranky and short-tempered and need more time to sleep and relax.

It is often at this time that owners start thinking about getting a new puppy. It is sometimes hoped that this new little pup will give the old dog a new lease on life and will also eventually help ease the sense of loss when the older dog dies.

The problem is that many owners don’t take into account whether having a new puppy is really going to bring pleasure to the older dog. For a dog that has arthritis or other health problems, the last thing they are likely to want is an exuberant pup jumping on their heads and annoying them all day long. In such cases the old dog may get really stressed and become increasingly irritable. The puppy in turn will often end up with a fairly unhealthy attitude towards other dogs as a result of being snapped at repeatedly for its social overtures. This is not a good situation for either dog.

Before getting another puppy, ask yourself the following questions:
1. Is my older dog still in good enough health to be able to physically tolerate being jumped on and chewed? (The worst combination is often a very small elderly dog having to deal with a large breed puppy.)
2. Does my older dog like interacting with other dogs? (If not, a new pup should not even be considered.)
3. Is my older dog competitive with other dogs? (Dog does not like other dogs getting attention from you.) Competitive aggression often gets worse with age and is usually more severe with another dog of the same sex.
4. Does my older dog have good habits that I would like my puppy to pick up or bad ones that I don’t want a puppy to learn?

If you already have more than one dog it is often easier bringing in a new pup, provided that one of the existing dogs in the household will enjoy playing with the puppy. In such cases the playful resident dog is likely to take most of the rough puppy play and the elderly dog will be spared. This does not mean that you should get two puppies at the same time as that comes with its own set of problems! (See Two puppies together)

If you always want to have dogs, plan ahead. Make sure your current dog is well-socialised and enjoys the company of other dogs. Decide in advance when would be a good time (from your current dog’s perspective) for a new dog. My personal preference is when the youngest resident dog is between 4 and 8 years old - that way he should be well-trained and closely bonded to you, but still young enough to want to play with the puppy.

In days gone by Wyatt was always happy to play with and look after the pups in the family. At 14 years of age, he is now happy to let Judah take over this role!

Having taken puppy and dog training classes for many years, I have seen dog owners turn up in a variety of outfits to train their dogs. Unfortunately there have been too many instances when fashion has won over practicality and common sense, so I thought it would be a good idea to give some pointers on what to wear to class! 

1. Sensible shoes: This is probably the most important item. Lace-up running shoes or hiking boots are best as they are comfortable, have excellent grip and assist with balance. They also protect your feet from sharp dog claws. Sandals and slip-slops are useless for training. They always come off during heelwork and owners end up tripping and falling on their dogs!

 
2. Long trousers or shorts: These allow you to move around freely. Long trousers also protect your legs against being scratched if a dog jumps up at you. Long skirts, dresses and wraps are the worst possible training clothes - you will trip over them or be constantly trying to readjust them.

 
3. T-shirts, shirts, sweat-shirts and jackets: All of these are fine for training. Always dress in layers so that you can cool down or warm up as the lesson goes on or the weather changes. Jackets with lots of pockets are excellent as you can keep a variety of dog toys and treats on your person easily.

 
4. Sun hat: This is crucial during summer when it can get really hot in class.

All of the above is really just common sense; however, it is amazing how many people have turned up at training over the years in mini skirts, strapless tops and high heels! Basically, when dressing for training, always ask these questions about what you are about to put on: Can I run in it and can I bend over in it (without it falling down, coming off or revealing things it shouldn’t!)

While exercise and other activities are extremely important for your dog’s physical and mental health, it is also vital that your dog has enough time to rest and to sleep. A survey conducted by Martina Scholz and published in “Stress in Dogs” (Martina Scholz and Clarissa von Reinhardt, Dogwise publishing, 2007), revealed that dogs that rest for less than 17 hours a day experience significantly higher stress levels than dogs that are able to rest for up to 20 hours a day. This may sound like a lot of sleeping, but I am sure that most of us have observed how our dogs do tend to just lie around for most of the day when nothing exciting is going on.

Here are some tips on how to ensure that your dog is getting enough rest:
1. Ensure that your dog has a quiet, cool area with a comfy bed where he can retreat to in order to relax.
2. Instruct all people in the house (especially children) to let sleeping dogs lie!
3. Try to schedule activities so that your dog has time to rest after physical or mental exertion (after walks, training sessions, play session or any other outings.)
4. If necessary close doors and curtains to muffle outside noises which might keep your dog on “alert”. This is particularly important for guardian type dogs who jump to attention at the slightest noise from outside.
5. Don’t allow one dog to constantly harass another one in an attempt to play. If the playful dog is not getting the message that the other dog has had enough, separate them for a while.

Be aware that puppies can become over-stimulated by lots of activity and may get to a point where they are incapable of winding down on their own. At this point the puppy should be quietly lured to a safe confinement area where he is given a hoof or piece of rawhide to chew, but has nothing else he can engage with (no furniture to jump on or chew and no other people or animals to play with). Most pups will bark, bounce and cry for a few seconds, but they will usually flop down, start chewing their rawhide treat and be asleep in a matter of minutes!

Even dogs that enjoy playing together all day long need to rest and sleep!

As we head into the hottest time of the year it is important to remember that the high temperatures we experience in this part of the world can have a big effect on our dogs’ health and behaviour. Many dogs will be more lethargic than usual when it comes to walks and training and some may even be less keen on their meals. Here are a few things to remember when caring for your dog:

1. Always make sure there is a constant supply of fresh water for your dog.

2. Exercise and train your dog early in the morning (before 9am) or later in the evening (after 4pm).

3. Do not take your dog for lengthy hikes up the mountain on hot days.

4. Give your dog plenty of opportunity to cool down by swimming or wading in the sea, rock pools or rivers that you have access to on walks.

5. Feed your dog in the shade or in a cool room indoors.

6. Make sure that your dog has cooled down after exercise (about an hour) before you feed him.

7. Be especially careful when walking older dogs, puppies and dogs with respiratory problems on warmer days.

8. Make sure that your dog has plenty of shade if he has to stay outside while you are out during the day.

9. If you have a white dog or a dog with very sparse fur on his nose, check with your vet about pet-sunblock to prevent permanent sun damage.

10. If you believe that your dog is uncomfortably hot, wetting his tummy down with cool water may help him to feel better.

If your dog is in serious distress, please do not hesitate to take him to the vet! Dogs can and do die from heat stroke. Summer can be a great time to enjoy the outdoors with your dog, but please be sensible!

In the “old days” most trainers and clubs only admitted dogs into their classes once they were at least 6 months old. However, the positive methods that are used to train dogs today make it possible for even very young puppies to enjoy and respond enthusiastically to training and most puppy classes allow pups to come to class from ten weeks of age.

Despite the fact that there are so many puppy classes around these days, there is still a fairly large proportion of people who do not think it is necessary to make use of these classes to train or socialise their pups. Some believe that formal training and socialising is unnecessary, while others intend to pursue the matter once their dogs are more mature. Problems with this are as follows:

1. Puppies are like little sponges: they learn constantly, regardless of whether we have a plan to train them or not. The only difference is that when we have no plan, the pup learns things that it shouldn’t or ends up training us instead!
2. Pups are far more receptive to socialising (learning to cope with new people, dogs and experiences) before they are 4 months old. If a puppy has not learned to get on with other dogs at an early age, admitting him to a class full of dogs when he is older can be very difficult.
3. When we train a young puppy we are starting with a fairly blank slate and are able to easily mould the pup’s behaviour. On the other hand, when we begin to train an older dog, the dog is likely to have already picked up bad habits which are often very resistant and take a long time to disappear.

While I am always glad to help people with their older dogs and I always enjoy seeing the wonderful changes which training can bring about in these dogs, I would urge people not to wait when it comes to these matters. Training should be seen as an investment in the dog’s future and not as a cure for a problem that has been allowed to develop. If we teach our puppies what we expect from them right from the start, we will make life easier for them and for ourselves in the long run!