However, recently a member of the Cape Rottweiler Club tragically lost his 18 month-old bitch to suspected Leopard Toad poisoning and a puppy from the club was also reported to have been seriously ill after an encounter with a Leopard Toad, highlighting just how serious this problem can be.

According to the website www.leopardtoad.co.za , all toads have a toxin gland behind their ears which secretes bufotoxins when they are injured or seriously threatened. If a dog tries to mouth or bite the toad, it may get a dose of the toxin and become ill. The first symptoms of poisoning are foaming at the mouth, then vomiting, increased heart-rate and lack of consciousness. It is believed that only dogs that are allergic to the toxins or ingest large doses will die without treatment; however every dog with any symptoms should be taken to the vet immediately. If the dog is suspected of licking or mouthing a toad and starts to foam, wash the dog’s mouth well and then proceed to the vet.

Leopard toads seem to be quite common in areas like Noordhoek, Sun Valley, Bergvliet and Clovelly. They often sit in dogs’ water bowls (which is harmless unless the dog interferes with them) and have even been known to hop indoors. The time when dogs are most likely to encounter them is at night, so keeping dogs indoors at night is a good idea.

Although Western Leopard Toads pose a very minor threat to most dogs in comparison to so many other dangers, it is always good to be aware and have the correct information just in case. To find out more about Leopard Toads and pets, have a look at:

http://www.leopardtoad.co.za/toads_and_pets.html

Many people want to have more than one dog so that the dogs can have each other for company. I do think that dogs that live with other socially healthy dogs tend to be better off in some ways - they often learn to share their toys, personal space and their owner in a way that “only dogs” struggle with and they have plenty of opportunity to practice canine communication and other social behaviours. Dogs really do seem to enjoy the company of other dogs and the presence of another dog may be comforting when the owner is out. Multiple dog households simply provide an extra dimension to a dog’s life - an added social dimension as it were.

However, there are plenty of single dogs that live very happy and fulfilled lives and there are some dogs that simply don’t get on well with other dogs in their home. It is important to consider whether your dog is sociable and enjoys the company of other dogs, before deciding to add to the family.

While it is up to the individual to make an informed decision about whether a single dog or multiple dogs is right for their home, I do believe that there is a right time to add a second dog and that doing so at the wrong time can cause many problems.

I firmly believe that one should wait until the first dog is at least 2 years old before getting another dog. The reasons for this are as follows:

1. The smaller the age gap between the dogs, the more chance there is that they will end up fighting over resources (owner, attention, chews, toys, space etc)
2.  Getting two puppies at the same time usually results in the puppies bonding with each other and ignoring the humans in the family completely.
3. Training two puppies at the same time is extremely difficult, because they usually distract each other or can’t bear to be separated during training.
4. Socialising two puppies is difficult, because they usually stick together so much  that they don’t mix with other dogs
5. If one waits until the first pup is 6 months old, one will then sit with a young teenager and a tiny puppy and the teenage dog (who is going through the most challenging and unstable time in his or her life) will have far more influence on the puppy than the owner. The puppy can learn alls sorts of bad habits from the teenager.
6. If one waits until the first dog is 12-18 months old you will then have one dog who is just starting to find his or her feet (social behaviour is beginning to stabilise, the dog is starting to remember all the things you taught him as a puppy and is responding to you more readily) when life is turned upside down by a new arrival. Often the older dog will regress and his behaviour will destabilise (he may join in with more puppy-like activities or feel he needs to protect the pup from other dogs).

However, if one waits until the first dog is a socially confident and content dog whose behaviour is predictable and fairly stable, the arrival of a new puppy will have far less effect on his behaviour. He will play and bond with the pup, but his main focus will likely remain on the owner.

To protect dogs against certain diseases, it is vital that all puppies complete a course of vaccinations at an early age. The current guidelines from the World Small Animal Veterinary Association (2010) recommend that pups have 3 core vaccinations against distemper, adenovirus and parvovirus, all of which can be deadly to puppies and adult dogs.

A complicating factor in puppy vaccinations is that puppies born to healthy mothers have a “passive” immunity (maternally derived antibody) against these diseases for possibly the first 6 - 12 weeks of their lives. This means that vaccinations given during this period may not “take”.

To try and ensure the efficacy of vaccinations, many vets are vaccinating slightly later i.e. the puppy only gets its first vaccination at 8 weeks of age. The problem is that without proper testing it is not possible to determine whether maternal antibodies are still functional at this stage and so the recommendation becomes that puppies should not socialize or explore outside the home environment until they have had the second or third vaccination, sometimes as late as 16 weeks.

The very serious problem that results from such late vaccination schedules, is that puppies are unable to attend puppy classes or be taken out into the world to socialize until AFTER the sensitive or critical period for socialization is over (for most breeds this ends at about 14 weeks, but in certain sensitive breeds like German Shepherds, it can end as early as 10 weeks)!

From a behavioural/developmental point of view this can be disastrous as the puppy is less likely to accept new people, dogs and environments once this period is over and may develop nervous/aggressive problems that he or she may never completely overcome.

Until recently most puppies were vaccinated for the first time at around 6 weeks of age, this meant that the second vaccination could be done as early as 9 weeks (each one should be 3-4 weeks apart) and pups could start classes at around 10 weeks of age. WSAVA’s guidelines for vaccinations do mention this problem and admit that it would be acceptable for the 3^rd vaccination to take place at around 14 weeks of age (meaning that the 1^st could be at 6 weeks, the 2^nd at 10 weeks and the 3^rd at 14 weeks).

It is important as a dog owner to discuss these options with your breeder and your vet ahead of time to ensure that a vaccination course is started early enough to enable your puppy to be able to begin socialising while he or she is still receptive to new experiences. Don’t be passive about this important issue, as it really could affect the rest of your dog’s life.

Please note that vaccinations are important. Once the initial puppy course is finished, all dogs must also have a booster 12 months after the final vaccination. The current recommended vaccination schedule for adult dogs is every 3 years. It is irresponsible not to vaccinate - these diseases are all too real and kill many shelter puppies and unvaccinated dogs in disadvantaged areas on a regular basis.

To see the full report from WSAVA’S Vaccination Guideline Group for 2010 please go to http://www.wsava.org/VGG1.htm

On the 3rd December some of our members entered the KA Open Show held at Constantia Rugby Club. We would like to congratulate the following people and dogs on their achievements:

Bronze Canine Good Citizen
Teresa & Jess
Nicky & Garbo
Ola & Tshabalala (Chubby)
Darren &Busta
Liz & Kai
Joanna & Puddles
Ronel & Bella
Thozama & Tundra (Tears)
Siyanda & Mac (Tears)
Simone & Laska (Tears)

Silver Canine Good Citizen
Thomas & Tara (Tears)

Special Beginners Obedience
2nd Place - Marieta and Griffin

 Novice Obedience
3rd Place with qualification (95%) - Taryn & Rosie

The dogs that they have chosen  to work with are  mainly young “teenagers” that are often overlooked by potential adopters, because they are no longer cute puppies, but not yet mature adult dogs either. Training dogs in this age group can be quite challenging, but these men have proved that they have what it takes to make a difference in these dogs’ lives. The classes focus on preparing the dogs for the Canine Good Citizen Test which requires the dogs to be able to perform basic obedience exercises and be well- socialised.

For dogs that have often had poor experiences with people and are insecure, the training really helps to build their confidence and restores their trust in people. It also teaches them how to get attention in appropriate ways and have “good manners”.

Tears have already had many dogs pass their bronze level Canine Good Citizen and a few have even gone on to achieve the silver level. People lucky enough to adopt one of these dogs will find that they are already well-trained and socialised and that much of the initial hard work in this regard has been done for them. Of course, this does not mean that adopters should not continue with training!

The dogs being trained at the moment for their Canine Good Citizen are shown here below with their trainers. If you would like to adopt one of these dogs, please contact the Tears office at 021 7854482

Kommetjie Canine College Calendar 2012 is ready to order!

 Once again the calendar contains photos of all the dogs that have been involved in our training classes on a regular basis over the past year. The calendar is A4 in size and is printed on 300 grams gloss paper. The cost is R180 per calendar - paymnent must accompany orders. Orders must be in by the 18th October. A hard copy of the calendar can be viewed at training.

Please preview the calendar pages below and see if you can find your dogs!

1. When adopting a new dog from a shelter or a dog from another home or even an adult dog from a breeder, allow the dog time to settle in at your home and with your family before you expect it to cope with the rest of the world as well. The Open Paw dog rehabilitation programme advises that dogs adopted from shelters are not taken out for the first two weeks after they come home. Some of us may feel impatient to get the dog out and start doing things with him or her, but remember that a good start where the dog has the chance to adjust and build up confidence in its new living environment can help the dog to cope better when you do start going out for walks etc.
2. When walking your new dog, keep him or her on the lead until you are sure of their reaction to other dogs, people and strange noises. A dog that is unsure of itself may run off to get away from something it finds scary. Often when the new owner tries to call the dog back, the dog does not know or trust the person well enough yet to respond. If you are concerned that the lead might cause social problems when meeting new people and dogs, leave the dog on a long line so that the dog has the freedom to interact naturally, but you can get the dog back if a problem arises.
3. Don’t leave a new dog out in the garden at night or when you are going to be leaving the home for a while, unless the property is 100% secure and there is no way that the dog can escape. A new dog may be very stressed on its own and may try to escape in order to follow you, to try and find something familiar or just to explore.
4. Fit your dog with a collar and clear name tag with your contact numbers on it immediately. This will allow someone to contact you directly if your dog does get out and they find him. Also make sure that the dog is micro-chipped so that if the collar comes off he can still be identified by a vet or rescue organisation.

Remember that rescued dogs in particular can be nervous of a variety of things and so may be vulnerable to getting frightened, confused and lost. It often takes time for the dog to learn to trust you and to feel comfortable enough to come to you when it is frightened rather than run away. Training using positive reinforcement will help to build confidence and a bond of trust between you and your dog.

1. There are currently thousands of puppies (and adult dogs) sitting in shelters all over the country waiting for homes. Every puppy that is brought into the world takes a home away from one of these dogs.

 
2. Breeding healthy puppies takes effort and preparation. The parents must be checked for hereditary diseases and the mother and father must be carefully matched in order to produce offspring that are mentally and physically healthy.

 
3. Keeping an intact bitch until she is the correct age to breed can be troublesome as you will have to go through several heat cycles first where you will have to ensure that she does not get pregnant.

 
4. Keeping an intact male dog increases the risks of the dog developing certain hormone-related behavioural problems such as aggression towards other male dogs and urine marking in the home.

 
5. Finding the right homes for puppies is not an easy thing to do. You may have many people who want them, but how many will really look after the pups the way that you would like them to?

 
6. If your dog has any behavioural problems that seem to be related to his or her temperament, this makes them unsuitable for breeding as you are risking passing on undesirable behaviour traits to all the puppies.

 
7. Responsible breeding is costly. Pregnant and lactating bitches require increased amounts of food and special veterinary care, puppies must be de-wormed (usually once a week until they are homed) and vaccinated at least once. Registered litters must also be micro-chipped and registered with the kennel union - all of this costs money and if the litter is a large one the bill will mount up.

 
8. Responsible breeders will not home puppies until they are 8 weeks old. This means that they will be fed solid food for at least two weeks prior to being homed. This is also costly.

 
9. Responsible breeders know how to correctly socialise puppies until they are homed. A good knowledge of early canine development is essential for a good breeder.

 
10. Registered breeders will usually take dogs back if the new owners are not able to keep them or they experience serious problems with them. Would you be able to do this or would you be happy to see a puppy that you had brought into the world end up in a shelter or worse?

On the 10th July members of Kommetjie Canine College entered the KA Non-Championship show. We would like to congratulate the following people and dogs:

Bronze Canine Good Citizen:
Bronwyn & Rosie
Dolores & Suzy-Q
Cathy & Leo
Melanie & Shabba
Sasha & Mojo
Wendy & Ty
Karen & Lily
Chris & Sabre (TEARS)
Simone & Aaron (TEARS)
Thozama & Blondie (TEARS)
Thomas & Tara (TEARS)

Special mention must be made of these last four dogs who are currently sheltered at the The Emma Animal Rescue Society and who have been trained by their handlers who are kennel assistants at the shelter. These dedicated men have devoted many hours to training and caring for these dogs in an effort to make them more adoptable. The dogs have responded beautifully to the training and they have done everyone at TEARS proud with their excellent behaviour at the show. We would now love to find homes for these dogs with people who will continue with their training and help these beautiful dogs to reach their full potential!

We had a record number of 9 dogs enter obedience at the show as well and achieved the following placings:

2nd place special beginners - Karen & Juno

3rd place special beginners - Marieta & Griffin
2nd place beginners - Gavin & Tusker
2nd place novice - Taryn & Rosie

Congratulations as well to Cindy & Pippa for achieving their Silver Canine Good Citizen and to A-J & Jinx for getting 3 clear rounds in dog jumping and qualifications in all three.

On the 5th June 21 of our advanced class dogs were evaluated for the Silver Canine Good Citizen Test and 16 for the Gold Canine Good Citizen Test. KUSA judge Marian Ott was kind enough to give up her whole Sunday to be our assessor. She was thorough, but efficient and the day was enjoyable for all who participated.

We are very pleased that all of our 37 dogs passed their tests and achieved their certificates. Special mention must be made of the two TEARS dogs, Shadow and Anuq, who did their handlers Siyanda and Thomas proud on the day, showing that shelter dogs can indeed achieve great things!

Congratulations to:

Silver Canine Good Citizens:
Geraldine and Maverick
Cindy and Mascu
Charlotte and Seal
Thomas and Anuq
Siyanda and Shadow
Lisa and Misty
Grant and Tusker
Susan and Boo
Shelley and Luca
Shelley and Gila
Les and Noodle
Karen and Juno
Karen and Phoebe
Christo and Lucy
Debbie and Nika
Dorothy and Kelsey
Tracey and Zeus
Steve and Magic
Josephine and Belle
Patricia and Max
Kariema and Mushu

Gold Canine Good Citizens
Susan and Jessie
Carol and Jessie
A-J and Trafford
A-J and Saxon
A-J and Jinx
Sean and Mojo
Regan and Ripley
Marieta and Griffin
Inge and Kunto
Taryn and Rosie

Liz and Zula
Jacki and Max
Christine and Gemma
Tracey and Rocket
Rob and Lisa
Christine/Rosie and Roibos

To see more of the day, please have a look at the Silver and Gold CGC Gallery June 2011

If anyone would like to order photographs from the day, please contact Inge:  info@imprintphotography.co.za